Introducing our newest family member – Oakley (who doesn’t like her picture taken!) She is quite the lady and has started learning the skills of country life.
We like our birds!!!! A small showing of our “regulars”.
Hoop house growing! The spinach and cabbage remain delicious!
Let’s not forget Miss Kitty, our tomato transplant supervisor. As quick as the transplants were re-potted, she would playfully paw them out of the pot. She is a very curious kitty!!
Papa presenting at the Wabash Valley Master Gardener Spring Conference in Terre Haute, Indiana. The topic , “Starting a Seed Saving Garden”. This wonderful group of dedicated Master Gardeners is very active in their community. Kudos to all your community service projects!!
Wabash Valley Master Gardeners
Spring flowers are cheerful! It is a delight seeing colors once again! Real “eye candy” for the soul.
Now that you have selected a flowering, shade or fruit tree let it give you years of pleasure by following these steps.
1- Location is essential for flowering, fruit bearing and shade trees.
- Full sun.
- Preferably well drained soil.
- Irrigation source.
- Right tree for the planting site. Where do you desire shade for cooling properties and where do you want full sun during the fall and winter months?
2 – Spacing of the tree in relation to buildings and other trees and plantings.
- Flowering trees: refer to the tag or your local county extension/Master Gardener.
- Shade trees need a very wide spacing due to shading capacity of the tree and its shape.
- Fruit trees are planted depending on their characteristic. Does the tree selected require a pollinator tree? Early, mid-season and late-season fruit bearing trees may each require a season specific pollinator. Your local county extension/Master Gardener will be helpful in your selections.
- Standard should be planted 25 feet apart.
- Semi-dwarf should be planted 12 to 15 feet apart.
- Dwarf should be planted 8 to 10 feet apart.
3 – Make sure the planting site is free of overhead/underground utilities, structures and easements.
4 – Now you are ready to plant.
5 – Dig a hole that is as deep as the root ball and doubled the width of the root ball. Notice the tarp? This is the best way to save the soil you have dug plus it makes for an easier clean-up.
- This is the time to add soil amendments such as compost, peat moss, kelp meal, bone meal , sand, etc. These amendments should fill the hole 1/3 to 1/2, mixed with the existing soil. The amounts will vary depending on the size of the root ball.
- This establishes a good root system and enhances the transplanting thus reducing stress to the tree.
6 – When placing the root ball in the ground make sure it is 1/2 inch to one  inch above the ground level. Planting above the ground level allows for the settling of the root ball.
- Where the trunk of the tree meets the root system is called the root flare. This juncture needs to be 1/2 to one  inch above the ground level.
- This step is crucial for a successful tree planting and continued growth and development of a healthy tree.
7 – Back fill and make a moat around the perimeter of the hole with the dirt dug from the tree planting. This moat will act as a reservoir and capture water thus reducing run-off and enhance the growth of the tree roots. This insures the tree receives proper moisture.
8 – The use of mulch is up to you.
- If mulch is used, do not place the mulch against the base of the tree.
- The base of the tree may respond to this mulch as soil and may stimulate root growth above the tree flare.
- See the possible results from “volcano” mulching. Notice the rotted tree flare. Besides it looks dumb!!!!!
It is important to stick to these steps for a tree you will enjoy for years to come.
Yes, Spring is in the air and the garden centers and box store outside garden areas are filling with trees, shrubs and annuals. You have decided to plant flowering trees, fruit trees and shade trees on your property this year. Is there something you need to know prior to purchasing?
1 – Examine the potted tree and see if there are exposed roots or roots circling the tree trunk.
2 – Pull the root ball out of the pot and inspect the root ball.
3 – Examine the root ball and see if there are roots growing on top of the soil. This is very easy to see.
4 – Are the roots circling around the edge of the root ball?
5 -If the trunk of the tree is loose or wobbly in the pot, it means it was grown from a smaller container where the roots had earlier in development started the circling pattern.
6 -If any or all of the above are observed/found, do not purchase the tree.
The tree will never pull out of this growth habit of circling its roots. The roots should be like the spokes of a wheel growing outwards in every direction.
Consequences of planting a tree with this rooting growth:
1 – A tree never capable of developing strong lateral, supporting roots.
2 – The tree will have to be permanently staked.
3 – In many instances these roots will surface and girdle other roots and the trunk of the tree thus cutting off its life support.
Be wise and be an active observer as you purchase that flowering, shade or fruit tree you desire for you property.
Which tree would you choose?
A friend of mine has created an easy to use Garden Planner.
Why would I recommend this helpful tool?
If you are like me, it is good to use a planting schedule to keep on course.
Clyde has created a tool helping you visualize your planting dates for Spring and Fall planting.
Visit his website Clyde’s Garden Planner
Watch the video on the website as Clyde explains this valuable tool.
This planner is well worth the investment.
For a sprint to the finish line try Greyhound (Ersterling) cabbage. Just 63 days for this heirloom variety from transplant and you will have lovely pointed head cabbages.
Eaten raw or cooked, this cabbage has a light sweet taste. Cold or hot weather will not stop this cabbage from performing its’ best. Greyhound did well grown in my hoop house. Plant it spring or fall. This one is a winner!
Aren’t they pretty!
Plants are blooming early this year in the Missouri Ozarks. Add to that some crazy temperature swings. This morning (Feb. 29) it was 26° and in the 70°s this afternoon.
Papa planted Sugar Ann snap peas in the hoop house.
Check out these veggies growing in the hoop house!!
The Cole crops (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage & collards) were started January 29 and are now ready to plant.
Gardening is such fun!!
What a pleasure! The Heirloom Gardener magazine has published three of my articles. The 2016 Spring edition has highlighted the Etiuda orange bell pepper, Red Express red cabbage and Hilton Chinese cabbage.
I am currently writing two more articles which may be in the Summer 2016 issue. I look forward to writing more articles for various other venues.
If interested, the magazine may be purchased online, Whole Foods, Home Depot and Barnes and Nobles.
I suppose everyone knows cats love heat. Miss Kitty is no exception. Check out her cute pose while laying on a 70° heat mat. Miss Kitty shares her room with my environmental germination station.
Stay tuned for more adventures with Miss Kitty!
It’s the season to start your spring Cole (Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, etc.) and cool season perennial seedlings for transplant. We have snow predicted for today in the Missouri Ozarks. Sounds like a great day to start seeds for March transplants.
Using clean flats and cell trays filled with soil-less potting mix and compost, plant 2 to 3 seeds per cell about 1/4 inch deep. Make sure to label the cell packs or small pots with the date and variety of plant.
Gently water the flats (We don’t want to wash out the seed!). Allow water to thoroughly wet the entire soil profile. Once the water has drained, you may now start to sow the seeds.
Flats placed on heat mats with artificial light above.
I place my seed and cell flats in an environmental chamber constructed from a shelving unit, thermostatically controlled electric heat mats and artificial lights. With this station, the perfect germination temperature and light requirements are met. In addition, plastic domes are a great way to create a humid atmosphere to enhance germination.
Usually cool season transplants require 4 to 6 weeks to reach the proper level of maturity to plant in the ground or other container.
This topic will be continued in the near future!
By the way, I will be attending and presenting at the 2016 Missouri Organic Association Annual Conference in Springfield, MO. The conference dates are February 4 – 6.
2016 Annual MOA Conference
See you there!
I was taking pictures in the seed germination room when I heard a “purrrupp” behind me. Miss Kitty was on her back in her favorite chair. I just had to take a picture!
What a cutie! She still has her moments but definitely better behaved. She now wears a pheromone collar that simulates the aroma of a momma cat. Eureka! It works!