It has been my experience, tomatoes planted late are far superior to early or standard planted. As the temperatures start to cool down, you get better flower set and consequently better fruit.
I prefer to cage my tomatoes for better foliage cover to reduce the chance of sun-scald. Heirloom tomatoes have superior taste and texture. However, the plants can exceed the size of the cage!! Next year I plan to grow the plants on 5 foot centers to allow for easier harvesting and increased air circulation.
BTW, the plant to the left of Papa is a variety called Granny Cantrell. This beloved heirloom has quite a following. The plant to the right is Daniel’s, which produces very large pink red fruit and appears to be well suited for our Missouri Ozarks climate.
The above variety has the unusual name of “1884”. The plant was discovered after a flood in West Virginia in 1884. This beauty weighs in at 1 pound 10 ounces. BLT sandwiches are written all over it!!!!
Kellog’s Breakfast is the name of this bright yellow/orange sweet confection. Boasting a good balance of sweetness and acidity with few seeds make Kellog’s Breakfast a highly desirable choice.
The expanded list of tomatoes grown are:
- 1884 – large pink/red beefsteak
- Black Prince – small purple/red 2-3 oz
- Black from Tula – medium red/purple, meaty/few seeds
- Coyne – red Roma type, large 4-8 oz
- Daniel’s – large pink/red beefsteak, many over a pound
- German Johnson – medium pink/red beefsteak, one of the parents of Branywine
- Granny Cantrell – medium/large pink/red beefsteak, plants are huge!
- Hannah – medium/large, pink/red oxheart, meaty, few seeds
- Hazelfield Farm – pink/red, medium beefsteak, well adapted to hot/humid
- Kellog’s Breakfast – large yellow/orange beefsteak, sweet and meaty
- Mary Robinson German Bicolor – large, red/yellow, beefsteak
- Omar’s Lebanese – large pink/red, may exceed 3 pounds
- Pineapple – large, yellow/red, very sweet and juicy
- Pink Boar – pink with green streaks, small 3-4 oz
- Rutgers – small, orange/red old fashioned for canning, juicing
- San Marzano Lungo #2 – 3-4 0z Roma type for sauce and paste
It never ceases to amaze me, how traditional tomato eaters are about the color of their tomatoes. As one man said to me “If it ain’t red, I ain’t going to eat it”. However, when they try the different colored tomatoes, they often change their mind.
For the Ozarks, start your tomato seeds the second week of May and plant your seedlings the first of July. Your tomatoes will start coming in by late August through October. BTW, for you market gardeners, late tomatoes command a higher price by late September/October due to limited supply.
Plant late, I promise you, you will not be disappointed!
My old nemesis the Tomato Hornworm is back! They certainly are an impressive creature!
When the Five Spotted Hawk (Manduca quinquemaculata) moth finds a tomato plant, it will lay one or several eggs on the tomato plant. When the eggs hatch, the little caterpillar will eat its egg case and starts to eat like crazy! The caterpillar will molt several times until it becomes mature and ready to burrow in the ground and metamorphize into a chrysalis. By late spring the chrysalis will open and a new moth appears in late spring/early summer. Finally the cycle starts all over again.
It is incredible how fast an almost mature caterpillar can strip a tomato plant. I recommend removing the worms by hand. Usually the creatures are found alone hiding amongst the damage. Beware, there color is a great camouflage! Check out the size of this critter!!
BTW, here is another indicator of their escapades. Giant worm poop!!!
You have to admit, they are amazing!!!!!!
You desire to grow some late tomatoes, but you didn’t start more seed. What do you do?
Take an old shallow container, drill holes in the bottom and root tomato cuttings in vermiculite and water. It’s actually pretty simple. Tomato plants are actually very tough.
Find a container that will hold coarse vermiculite and water ( a plastic dishpan works great!!). Drill several 3/8 inch holes in the bottom of the container. By the way, you may use a large shallow nursery pot as well. Now place about 3 to 4 inches of coarse vermiculite in the container. Water the vermiculite to supply moisture to the cuttings. Allow excess water to drain prior to taking cuttings.
Carefully take cuttings from desired tomato plants using garden pruners. I have found, the larger the cutting, the easier to root! Place the cuttings in the moistened vermiculite about 3 inches apart. I place my rooting container in the shade to maintain proper hydration of the new cuttings. Usually it takes 10 to 14 days for proper rooting.
You may notice raised bumps or even small roots starting on the stem. These cuttings are the easiest to root.
Look at the results after just 10 days.
Now it is time to pot up your rooted cuttings in large containers to use for transplant in 10 days.
Water the newly potted cuttings and place in a lightly shaded area. Gradually move the pots into more sun light. Plant the potted plants as you would any transplant.
This an easy, effective way to start large, quick growing tomato plants.
Sunday was a beautiful day for a festival. It was a wonderful day to meet and greet new people and the Bluegrass music from the Missouri Ozarks was amazing! What more could you ask from the day?
My Miss Sunshine was a wonderful helper.
Gardening questions included “How do you change the color of hydrangeas?”, “Why did my strawberry plants die?”and “You can grow lettuce during the hot summer months?” I plan to address these questions in future posts.
The booth was a stunning success. Heirloom Tomato and Hot/Sweet Pepper transplants in addition to potted June bearing Strawberry plants, Annual Phlox and Hollyhocks were for sale.
The lettuce bowls with Oak Leaf, Amish Deer Tongue and Red Romaine lettuces with edible Pansy’s were well received.
Sweet Peas on the vine, Bachelor’s Buttons and Snowball Hydrangeas complimented the booth receiving surprised and rave reviews. People in this area are not familiar with cultivated Sweet Peas and were pleased with their knockout colors and fragrance.
Thanks again for visiting the world of Papa’s Gardens.
The daytime temperatures are getting warm and it’s cool at night. It seems like the perfect scenario for great growing weather. Your peas are up and growing like a storm. What’s that on the leaves and pods? There are white fuzzy spots growing on my peas. Powdery Mildew strikes again!!
Powdery mildew is the most common occurring plant fungal disease. Its appearance, when first noticed, is characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish powdery growth on the upper surface of leaves and their stems.
- It impairs photosynthesis
- Stunts growth
- Increases the rate of plant decline
Advanced stage of powdery mildew:
- Foliage turns to yellow, leaves curl or turn brown.
How does this happen? There are three requirements for disease to flourish. A host, the pathogen/disease and the right environmental conditions.
- Powdery mildew (thin layers of fungal tissue on the surface of the leaf which produce spores) requires new and young living plant tissue to grow.
- The disease grows as mycelium (fungal tissue) on the surface of the affected plant as white patches where the spores are produced.
- Spores make up the white/gray powdery growth visible on the leaf surface.
- Spores of powdery mildew are carried by the wind, splashing rain drops and/or insects to new plant tissue.
- The spores can produce in 48 hours.
- Warm, humid days and cool nights are the perfect conditions for the fungus to grow.
- Moderate temperatures of 60° to 80° (F) are favorable temperatures for powdery mildew growth.
- Temperatures of 90° (F) and above inhibits the growth of the disease.
- High humidity for spore germination common in crowded plantings, where air circulation is poor and damp shaded areas invite this plant fungal disease.
- Crop debris and host weeds are important to the survival of powdery mildew.
- The spores of powdery mildew over winter attached to plant parts and plant debris.
These are the common preemptive strategies to avoid/combat powdery mildew.
- Plant powdery mildew resistant varieties if available.
- Plant in full sun.
- Properly space plantings to allow good air circulation.
- If plants are overcrowded, prune to allow increased air circulation, reduce humidity and cross infection.
- Arrange your rows or beds east to west to eliminate shade possibility.
- Tallest plantings should be to the north.
- Avoid overhead watering. Best time to water is mid morning allowing the plants to completely dry.
- Stay out of the garden when wet!!! Otherwise, you become a carrier of the disease.
- Avoid the late summer application of nitrogen fertilizer (fish emulsion, composted poultry litter, ammonia nitrate, urea) which limits new growth the disease attacks.
- Remove ALL diseased plant parts and burn or bag and remove from property.
- If possible, remove diseased plant parts on a sunny, hot, wind free day.
- Spores are killed by heat and direct sunlight.
- In the absence of wind there is less of a chance for spore dispersal.
- Remove ALL plant material and plant debris (mulch included) in the fall.
- Survival rate of any overwintering fungal spores is decreased.
- DO NOT COMPOST ANY PLANT MATERIAL OR DEBRIS where this disease was active.
When fungus pressure/threshold is too great you can pull all diseased plants or are there fungicides to use? The answer is YES!!
- Horticultural oils – Saf-T-Side Spray Oil®, Sunspray Ultra Fine Spray Oil® – follow label directions
- Neem Oil (plant based), Jojoba Oil (plant based) – follow label directions
- Never apply when temperatures are 90° (F) or above or with drought stressed plants.
- Never apply an oil spray within two (2) weeks of a sulfur application as plants may be damaged.
- Wettable Sulfur is most effective when applied before disease symptoms appear. – Safer Garden Fungicide® – follow label directions
- Never apply when temperatures are 90° (F) or above or with drought stressed plants.
- Never apply within two (2) weeks of an oil spray.
- Be careful when spraying squash and melons as there may be damage.
- Baking soda ( Sodium Bicarbonate)
- Combine with horticultural/dormant oil with liquid/insecticidal soap
- 1 TBS Baking Soda, 1 tsp horticultural/dormant oil, 1 tsp insecticidal/liquid soap to 1 gallon of water.
- Spray every one to two weeks.
- Use sparingly to avoid sweetening (alkaline) the soil.
- Potassium Bicarbonate – Kaligreen® – contact fungicide killing spores of powdery mildew quickly.
- Approved for organic use. Follow label directions.
- Mouthwash – generic ethanol based – spray 1 part mouthwash to 3 parts water.
- Caution use on new foliage as it may be damaged.
- Vinegar – spray 2 -3 TBS apple cider vinegar (5% acetic acid) mixed with 1 gallon water.
- Caution use on new foliage as it may be damaged.
- Milk – natural occurring compounds in milk attack the disease while improving the plants immune system.
- Spray 1 part milk to 2 parts water weekly.
Biological Fungicides – beneficial microorganisms when sprayed on plant tissue destroy fungal disease. Serenade®, Actinovate AG®, Cease®
- Active ingredient – Bacillus subtillis – prevents powdery mildew from infecting the plant. Follow label directions.
- Non toxic to people, pets and beneficial insects
- Not proven to be as effective as oils or sulfur
Here are a few examples of powdery mildew.
Remember, fall clean-up is essential!! Be on your guard!
I often get this question this time of year. You can hardly wait to get your tomatoes in the ground! You’ve grown the plants out with great care. You’ve babied them.
You desperately want to plant them in the ground. You take your hand or trowel and plant them in the cold ground. You water the seedlings and hope they will quickly grow. Uh oh, something is wrong! For some reason the plants don’t look so good after a couple of days in the soil. They look like they are burnt or dying. What did I do wrong?
Here are the steps you must take for successful transplant.
- A seedling must be 45 – 60 days old prior to transplanting into your garden or container.
- Seven (7) to 10 days prior to transplant, start to wean the plants to use less water. Only water enough to prevent wilting.
- Treat your seedlings with seaweed emulsion, either by spraying or watering with a one (1) tablespoon per gallon of water solution.
- Take the seedlings outside for 2 hours the first day. Make sure you do this on a warm day with little wind. A cold wind could damage the seedlings. If you are using a cold frame*, completely opening the lid. Use the same guidelines as above.
- Each day increase the time outside by one (1) to two (2) hours.
- By the tenth day the seedlings will be tough enough to take the rigors of full sunlight and wind.
- Now you may safely plant your seedlings outside.
*Cold frame – a box with no bottom that has a hinged or removable clear or translucent top. The top may be opened or closed when the temperature outside is too cold or too warm. The box may be constructed out of hay/straw bales, glass, poly carbonate, wood, etc.
The Coyne and Hannah German Heirloom tomatoes were started on April 4th. It is amazing to see the progress from seed into seed flats, then transplanted into cell flats. They are continuing to grow in the cold frames. Plus, the cooler growing temperatures and fresh air is making the transplants more sturdy. Hopefully, the transplants will be short and stocky when it comes time to plant directly in the garden.
Below you will see the original seed flats and then the transplanted cell flats. Quite a transformation!
I uploaded a YouTube video showing my grandson and I planting some heirloom tomato seeds. I show how to plant in a seed flat and a cell flat.
These are the same seeds that you can see growing up in previous posts:
Seed Growouts in Germination Chamber
A Busy Day – Planting and Transplanting
It is time to plant our pansies in bowls and decorative pots.
Right on schedule, the Coyne and Hannah heirloom tomatoes were transplanted from the seed flats into cell packs.